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Commune
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Angers
Château de
Brézé
Cizay-la-Madeleine:
Abbaye Asnières
Cunault
Denezé-sous-le-Lude: Abbaye de la Boissière
Fontevraud l'Abbaye: The Abbey Lasse
Saint-Florent-le-Vieil
Trèves Vihiers
Vaulandry
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ANGERS |
Cathédrale
Sainte-Maurice |
Entrance to the cathedral is free; there
are no restrictions on photography |
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Guillame Angebault
(1790-1869)
Bishop of Angers (1842-1869) |
Radulphus de Bello
Monte |
Claude de Rueil (1649)
Bishop of Angers
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Charles Montault Des Isles
(1755-1839)
Bishop 1802-1839 |
Noel Pinot (1794)
was a
Refractory Priest
who was guillotined during the French Revolution |
Charles-Émile Freppel (1891)
Bishop of Angers. By Falguière |
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Left:
Representation of the destroyed monument of 'Good
King René'
Note
the heraldry painted on the wall behind the monument, which may
still be see.
Above Left:
Wall painting, now mainly obscured by wooden
panelling, in front of which was the above tomb.
Above Right: A slab from 1850 commemorating members of the
royal house of Anjou who were buried in the Cathedral and whose
monuments were destroyed or never constructed. (see below)
Right: Front of the mortuary chest
of Ulgar,
bishop of Angers 1125 - 1148. Oak,
brass gilded and varnished. |
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Members of the House of Anjou whose tombs were in
the Catherdral |
1. Louis I (1384) Duke
of Anjou
2.
Marie of Brittany (1339)
Daughter of John II and Beatrice, who herself was daughter of
Henry III of England. Married Guy IV, Count of St Pol
3.
Louis II (1417) Duke of Anjou. Crowned king of Naples.
4.
Yolande of Aragon (1442) Daughter of John I of Aragon;
married Louis II of Anjou; mother of René. Financed Joan of
Arc's Army.
5.
René the Good (1480)
6.
Isabelle of Lorraine (1452) First wife of René
7.
Marguerite of Anjou (1482) Daughter of René. Known in
Britain as Queen Margaret of Anjou, following her
marriage to King Henry VI; a leading figure in the Wars of the
Roses.
8.
Jeanne de Laval (1492) Second wife of René
Right is another rendering of the monument before its
destruction. This is similar but the arch over the monument has
been ommitted. Left is a rendering of the effigies |
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Le Musée
des Beaux-Arts |
Entrance fee. Not a friendly museum: there
are rather a lot of 'thou shalt not' notices, including 'no
photography'.
Other museums in Angers - or any other in France we have visited
- do not follow this unfortunate practice. |
Collegiale
Saint-Martin |
This former collegiate church has been
restored and is now a museum. |
Slate grave slab 725
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Ermdramnus, clerk. 3rd year of the reign
of King Charles [771 or 774].
Slate |
Autherus. 18th year of the reign of King
Charles (789 or 792) |
Gravestone of Guillemine Mauclerc
Second part of 16th century
Limestone
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Bathaldus. 3rd year of King Charles [771
or 774} |
7th - 8th century sarcopagus from Poitiers
area.
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Slate grave slab of a woman, wife of a
lord |
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Several early grave slabs and sarcophagi excavated in the
church |
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St John's
Hospital |
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This building was a
medieval hospital which is now a museum housing the magnificent
tapestries of Jean Lurçat in the
former large hospital ward. There are also remains of a
cloister, which contains the minor monuments shown below, as
well as a chapel; the latter is not open to the public but I
understand - although I have not yet confirmed this - that it
contains possibly three effigies. The museum is worth a visit
for the fine architecture as well as the amazing tapestries; as
usual in France there is a modest entrance fee and photography
is allowed. You can park across the road from the museum in a
large free car park on the banks of the Loire |
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Above: Elizabeth de Soland (1813)
Tuffeau. Attrib. Pierre-Louis David (father of sculptor
David d'Angers. From old cemetery du Clon, Angers.
Centre: August-Jean-Marie Trouillet de Bléré
(1822) First Lieutenant of Louis XVI.
Marble. From Chapel of the Bouteillerie at
Brain-sur-l'Authion, Maine-et-Loire
Right: Cross 1603 From Old church of St James, Angers |
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Château
de Brézé |
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This is one of the
'Loire Châteaux', the style now
being that of the Renaissance. However below the ground is a
vast series of tunnels and rooms from the twelfth century.
There is an entrance charge to the
chateau; however there is a reduction (and as well as certain
other monuments in the area) for those who have a season ticket
to Fontevraud, which
cost little more than a single visit. Opening times vary. Check
on the website below:
http://www.chateaudebreze.com/loire-castle-france.html
Ref: 47˚ 10.12' N/ 0˚ 3.43' W |
This is a fragmentary military effigy which
looks late 15th - early 16th century, which I discovered in a
store room in the subterranean part of the château.
There is no indication of its origin let alone whom it may
represent. |
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Cizay-la-Madeleine
Abbaye Asnières |
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Former Benedictine Abbey of around 50 monks,
founded by Barnard de Tiron, a colleague of Robert Arbristle,
the founder of Fontevraud. The abbey, now partly ruined, is about
10 miles from Fontevraud and about a mile outside the village of
Cizay-la-Madeleine. This village should be shown on
satnavs although the abbey will probable not be. It is shown in
the larger scale IGN maps. Head for Cizay-la-Madeleine and there
the abbey is signposted. Ref:
47°10.50'
N/ 0°12' W; Code 49 70 0
Open July to August 11.00AM -
6.00PM, except Tuesdays and/or Mondays. But check this on
website. May also be open from mid May until 30th June
except Monday and Tuesday. Entrance fee €6.50; children (8-18)
4€. Parking outside.
Website:
www.abbaye-asnieres.com E-mail:
contact@abbaye-asnieres.com |
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Abbot, early 13th C. This is very similar to the Fontevraud
effigies. Traces of original polychrome
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Another abbot but later. Very poor condition. There may well
have been a draped bier carved as above and as the Fontevraud
monuments but this is now difficult to determine. We now have in
addion an animal (lion?) to support the feet and two
angels at the head supporting a pillow. There is also a seated
monk (?) near the feet of the effigy reading a book. Neither in
situ.
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Stone coffins in situ. Note the
tiled pavement in the centre photograph. |
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Chênehutte
- Trèves
- Cunault |
A commune on the south bank of La
Loire, west of Saumur
Two of the three villages have churches with medieval effigies |
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Cunault Priory |
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Church open. Park opposite the church
- free car park. A
magnificent church and well worth a visit. Very
loud bells!
Ref: 47˚ 19.71' N/ 0˚ 12.03' W |
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The monument is of a 14th century prior. But
what is the animal at his feet?
Its tail is wrapped around what lools like a monk
reading |
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Trèves
- St Aubin |
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Church open - park outside
Ref: 47˚ 19.42' N/0˚ 11.51'W
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Effigy of
Robert le Maçon
(1443), Baron of Trèves
and Chancellor of France in the time of Charles
VII. He built the 'donjon',which can be
seen next to the
church. |
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Denezé-sous-le-Lude |
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Abbaye de la Boissière |
The abbey is north of
the village but do not enter the village but rather remain on
the D767 which leads from Noyant (south) to Le Lude (north); the
abbey is then signposted on your right - if you are travelling
north - shortly after passing Denezé-sous-le-Lude. The abbey is on
private property and only the chancel now remains, the rest of
the buildings having being either demolished or converted into a
private house. The abbey is open to visitors from 1st August to
15th September. There are no signs outside so it is not obvious on arrival where the actual
entrance is to be found, so it may be better to telephone
beforehand to ask for advice. Excellent English is spoken.
Contact details may be found
here. There is no charge for these individual visits.
Parties
of 20 to 80 persons may visit at anytime; but prebooking is
required; there is a charge here
of €5 per person. Park on the roadside
outside. Ref: 47°33.2' N/0° 07.8'E |
These very fine effigies were discovered
buried in the monks' cemetery in the early 20th century, where
they are said to have been hidden during the French Revolution.
Some of the original polychrome can still be detected.
They are said to be of Guilleaume Chamaillard
d'Anthenaise (1391) and his wife Mairie de
Beaumont, both benefactors to the abbey.
The military effigy was originally situated in a niche
in the south wall of the Chapel of the True Cross. ( see below);
the lady was presumably originally, as now, in the abbey
church.
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The Chapel of the True Cross |
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West of the abbey is the Chapel of the True Cross; this is so
called because Jean d'Alluye brought back a piece of the true
cross from Crete during the Crusade of 1239 (or Barons' Crusade)
and sold it to the abbey, where it was initially kept. The
chapel was built in 1246 specifically to house this relic, so
that it could be venerated by pilgrims. |
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Left: Exposed stone coffin with shafts of four
long bones and fragments. These bones have been date to around
the year 800.
Above: Tomb recess, also visible
in the interior photograph above. This originally contined the
military effigy which is now in the church, above.
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Fontevraud l'Abbaye |
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The Abbey |
There is no parking at the Abbey, apart for those
staying at the
hotel, but there is free
parking offered by the Abbey just across the road as well as nearby in the town, where there are also free facilities for
camper vans. There is an entrance fee to the Abbey; seasons tickets are
also available for a little more and are very good value. There are no
charges for photography and tripods and flash may be used. When in
Fontevraud l'Abbaye also visit the medieval parish church and the
Lantern of the Dead (interior not yet open).
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This
is a magnificent place to visit: the largest
monastic complex in western Europe which
originally housed five monasteries. There are
actually three churches on the site but that shown here is
that of le Grand Moutier. Old French for monastery)
The church houses the painted tuffeau effigies of the
English Kings, Henry II, and his son, Richard the
Lionheart, Henry's Queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine
and the wooden effigy of King John's Queen,
Isabella of Angoulême. Why were they buried
here? They were not only kings of England but
rulers of an extensive area of what is now
France: Dukes of Normandy, of Aquitaine, Counts
of Anjou, Touraine and Maine and overlords of
Brittany, often called the 'Angevin Empire',
although this was not a contemporary term, being
first used by Kate Norgate in the 19th century.
Neither
was it an empire and the expression would not have been
recognised by those concerned. The kings died in
France and the queens died in retirement in the
Abbey.
The church has been
extensively excavated but no trace of coffins or
remains have been found. However the effigies,
which have moved around over the years, are now
thought to rest where the burials took place, at
the eastermost part of the nave. Henry and
Eleanor's daughter, Joanne, who died in childbirth,
is also buried in
the Abbey but no monument has been found. Her
son, Raymond VII of Toulouse was also buried
hereand an effigy thought to be his was
excavated several years ago; however this is not
yet on display in the Abbey. A wall painting,
nearly complete, said to be that of Raymond, remains
on a pillar of the crossing. Several other
sculptures have also been excavated but whether
these represent funerary monuments is not known.
On display in the visitors' centre is the
effigial head only (the rest of the monument
having been lost) of the founder of the Abbey,
Robert d'Arbrissel, but this is not
contemporary.
The complex is no longer a
working abbey nor a prison into which it was
converted by Napoleon: it is run by the French
state as a cultural centre and may be visited..
The photographs flanking
the title show 1. The west end and entrance to
the Abbey Church, 2. The east end of the Abbey
Church, 3. The interior of the church looking
east where the effigies can be just seen in the
centre, and 4. The main cloister. |
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Far left: Hand coloured etching by
Charles Stothard of the effigy of Henry II before its restoration.
Left: Similar of Eleanor of Aquitaine
Right: Similar of Richard the Lion Heart
Far Right: Similar of Isabelle of Angoulême
Above: The effigies as they are arranged today. |
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Henry II 1189 |
Eleanor of Aquitaine 1204 |
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Richard the Lion Heart 1199 |
Isabelle of Angoulême 1246 |
Early Drawings of the Effigies
from the Gaignières Collection (c.1700) |
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This pre-revolutionary
collection of drawings of the Fontevraud effigies, executed
before 1700 - and about 100 years before the Stothard etchings -
shows them in a relatively undamaged stage; particularly showing
that Eleanor
is still holding her book which had broken away with most of
both her hands by the time Stothard visited Fontevraud.
In neither of these collections is Henry or Richard shown
holding a scepter. If you visit the monuments today you will
find that Henry is doing just that while Richard is not. It is
quite possible that Henry did hold a scepter from the position
of his hands and the fact that royal effigies usually did so.
Richard does not hold a scepter today although one was added for
a while and can be seen in early photographs of his effigy. The
position of his hands makes it unlikely that he is holding a
scepter in the manner of his father. The royal effigies in
Saint-Denis are represented as holding a scepter with one hand
only - as is Richard's effigy at Rouen - and often resting it on
the shoulder with the other hand holding a garment; perhaps this
was the case here. |
Some Notes on the Monuments |
Because the effigies of Henry and Richard are of similar
appearance - note the relatively low relief and the folds of
the garments - it is thought that they were both constructed
around same time, probably on the orders of Eleanor; this
would date them to the first years of the 13th century. That of
Eleanor was constructed later - note the higher relief and
the more realistic carving of the drapery folds - most
likely
later in the same century. That of Isabelle presents a
problem: it is smaller and made of wallnut. Isabelle died at
Fontevraud in 1246 and was originally buried in the nuns'
cemetery. Her son King Henry III visited Fontevraud (Gascony
was still in English hands) and
ordered that his mother's remains be transferred to
the church and a monument made. Perhaps the wooden effigy
was carved at this time so that Henry III could see it, there
being no stone carver nor sufficiently large stone block on
site at that time. Perhaps this was a prototype and it was
intended that a tuffeau effigy would be constructed later.
This, however, is speculation as I have found no relevant
references.
It is generally agreed that the tuffeau female effigy is that
of Eleanor and the the two male effigies are those of Henry
and Richard. But which is Henry and which is Richard? They
are traditionally ascribed as above but foremost Plantagenet
expert Professor John Gillingham expresses
uncertainty. The authorities at the Abbey tell me that they
have evidence for the identification but they have never presented it to
me.
The late art historian Professor George Zarnecki stated that the wooden effigy cannot be that of Isabelle
as she died more than forty years after the others and that
the effigy was constructed at the same time as that of
Eleanor. I believe that he bases the latter assertion on the
fact that the design is similar to that of Eleanor's and
that an effigy of a different style would have been
constructed forty years later. This seems to me to be
unsound
reasoning as there is nothing to stop a later effigy being
constructed in an earlier style, which is only forty years
earlier anyway. Furthermore he does not indicate whom the
effigy might possibly represent. The fact that the effigy is made of wood
also contradicts his statement, which I think can be totally
rejected.
A little more about Isabelle may be found
here. This is taken from a Monument of the Month
article in the Church Monuments Society
website, which I wrote some years ago.
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Other Monuments |
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Above:
Pierre de Poitiers,
Bishop of Poitiers.
Destroyed
Gaignières Collection |
Above far left and far right:
Effigy of Raymond VII, Count of Toulouse. He
was the son of Raymond VI and Joanne, the daughter of Henry and
Eleanor. The wall painting has been on diplay from when it was
first oncovered. The effigy was discovered during the excavation
of the abbey church floor in the 1980's and has been kept
out of public view in the stone store. It appeared in the church
during a Plantagenet exhibition in autumn 2021; I hope he
remains there!
The tuffeau effigy is in a damaged condition but much of the
polychrome remains.
Raymond VII and his father Raymond VI were victims of the wicked
Albigensian Crusade which overran the County of Toulouse
destroying property and killing a large number both combatants
and non combatats, many of whom were burned alive. This
was certainly a great disgrace on the name of medieval
Christianity.
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Above
left: Early 17th century monument to Robert d'Arbrissel
(c 1117)
Probably drawn later that century.
(Gaignières
Collection)
Centre Top
Left:
Head
from the destroyed effigy, the only
fragment remaining of the effigy; now on display in the
'treasury' - the original warming room, which leads from the
east aspect of the main cloister. Centre Top Right:
Epitaph from the tomb chest. Center Bottom: His
coffin is shown just below the floor of the abbey church between
two pillars on thesouth aspect of the choir. Right: The
superstructure of the monument today. The tomb chest and the
torso of the effigy are lost. This monument was commissioned by
Abbess Louise de Bourbon Langdon and carved by Gervais De La
Barre in the 17th century; she also commissioned the
effigy, mostly lost. |
now
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Robert d'Arbrissel Exhibition at
Fontevraud
12th and 13th November 2016 |
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Robert d'Arbrissle did not die at
Fontevraud but at another of his foundations, the Priory of
Our Lady of Orsan at Maisonnais, Berry in 1116. The nuns and
monks of Fontevraud who has arrived at Orsan a few days
before Robert's death, carried his body back to their
abbey and deposited them in the cloister for safe keeping.
However a deputation arrived from Berry and carried the body
by force back to Orsan and ordered a sarcophagus, totally
ignoring Robert's last wishes to be buried in the mud of Fontevraud.
The Abbess of Fontevraud, Petronille de Chamillé, resisted,
calling on the Pope, God and threatening a hunger strike of
the community. Finally, after many negotiations, it was decided that his heart was to
remain at Orsan while his unembalmed body was to be returned to
Fontevraud.
Abbess Petronille de Chemillé, following the founder's
wishes, did not particularly
favour the veneration of Robert and by burying him in the
choir of the abbey church, it was not possible for the
public to visit his tomb. (see above) She did,
however, submit papers to the then pope, Calixtus II, during
his visit to Fontevraud in the summer of 1119, in an attempt
to effect his canonization although this was in vain.
In 1621 Abbess Louise de Bourbon, one of the few abbesses
who wished to maintain the cult of Robert, organized the
construction of a memorial to
his memory (see above). This necessitated opening
of the original tomb and the bones found therein were
enclosed in a lead casket and placed in the new tomb to which
the public still did not have access. (right) She
also submitted papers to the then pope, Clement IX, in a
further attempt at Robert's canonization but this came to
nothing following the death of both the Pope and the Abbess
shortly afterwards.
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A further attempt at canonization
occurred in 1853, the Fontevraud sisters submitting a
petition to the Holy See. This again failed because of
Robert's alleged vices. Nevertheless the title 'Blessed' is
granted to him in the calendar of the church of Poitier.
In contrast the Prioress of Orsan encouraged public
veneration of Robert, his heart being enclosed in a 'stone
pyramid'. At some point the heart was transferred to a silver
reliquary. (Left top) which now contains a small
bottle holding the remains of the heart. (Left bottom).
The last of the nuns left Fontevraud in 1792 but the
observance of the Order of Fontevraud persisted in the
daughter houses of Chemillé, Brioude and Boulaur.
In the early part of the 19th century excavations at
Fontevraud led to the discovery of the lead casket referred
to above, and this, presumably with the silver reliquary,
were entrusted to the nuns of Chemillé in 1847.
In 1956 the Order of Fontevraud was attached to the
Benedictine Order and in 1961 the Chemillé nuns joined
the Benedictine Priory of Barre, in
Martigné-Briand, Maine-et-Loire, taking the relics with them.
These box and reliquary were brought temporarily at Fontevraud
for the
above exhibition
The inscription on the lid of the lead
box (above bottom right) are in French which may be
translated thus: 'In this coffer are the bones and ashes of
the worthy body of the venerable Father Robert d'Arbrissel,
a teacher and founder of the Order of Fontevrault, which
were found in his tomb when it was raised and erected in
this place beside the great altar by command and care of the
worthy Abbess and Head of the said Order Lady Loyse de
Bourbon on 5th October 1622.'
Note that Robert d'Arbristle is referred to as 'Father'.
Although there were attempts to canonize him this failed and
he had never received the title of Saint or Blessed at that
time. Note also
the older or alternate spelling of Fontevraud.
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Missire Françoic-Henry
de Menon (16 - -) and Dame
Madeleine de la Tour (1627)
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Lasse
- Church of St Peter |
Church locked. Park in
small, free car park across the road and a very
short walk away
Ref: 47° 32.2' N/0° 00.7' E |
The church was locked but this may
have been because of major repair works being carried
out. I will revisit later.
There is reported an engraved tombstone (insiced slab?)
of Isabeau de la Plesse, dame of Bouchet (1327)
and her husband. |
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