7. Drawing the Line |
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Drawing | ||||
Pencil drawing is an excellent method for producing good, accurate renderings of church monuments, especially while in the church. This is what the etchers, such as Charles Stothard and Thomas Hollis, used to do all those years ago in order to produce preliminary drawings for their finished work. I use a series of pencils from hard to soft with which it is possible to produce clear lines and good shading. Highlights can be added by using a plastic eraser to lighten the shaded area. But pencil drawings, no matter how fine they may look, do not reproduce particularly well on the internet. Compare the drawing on the left of the lady at Wear Gifford, on the banks of the River Torridge in Devon, which I drew in the church around twenty years ago with the pen and ink drawing on the right, which I produced at home more than forty years ago. However having seen Charles Stothard's original pen drawings, I think I shall have to sharpen my rechnique! Pen and ink drawings are ideal for drawing monumental effigies and reproduce very well indeed; they can even be made to look rather like etchings. I executed this drawing of Prince William of Hatfield, young son of King Edward III, by copying an etching by Charles Stothard. The lady in Wear Gifford is under a very low arch and behind the choir stalls and so is difficult to draw and not easy to photograph well from a good angle. William of Hatfield is in an even more difficult position in York Minster so how Mr. Stothard produced his original drawing is quite amazing. My drawing was executed by using a series of Rotring pens (which used to be used by architects) on a special paper called CS10, which was manufactured by papermaker Frisk. The pens have a tubular nib, which is best used perpendicular to the paper, and can be used with Indian Ink so give very fine and sharp results indeed. The pens are still available although they are becoming increasingly expensive, perhaps because architects and others are now using computers more and more for their work. They can also be infuriating: the pens, especially the fine ones used in the drawing, are apt to block from time to time. Shaking them often unblocks them but there is a danger of a blot of ink ending up on a nearly finished drawing or, perhaps even worse, on the carpet. Be careful not to lose your temper with the pen: violent shaking can result in the nib hitting the desk and then you might as well throw the pen in the bin, as well as ending up with a damaged top to the desk. Frisk CS10 paper, unlike the confounded yet wonderful pens, was truly magic. It had a hard surface which sort of went right through to the back so that you could correct a mistake, remove a blot and, especially useful, gently scratch the line with a scalpel to make it less black which makes the drawing, as may be seen, resemble an etching. If you removed an error there would still be a usable drawing surface below. The surface itself takes a fine line without it bleeding: some papers are almost like drawing on blotting paper in this respect. I used to scratch out with a number 15 Swann-Morton blade, then use an ink eraser or stick and finally polish the paper with a pencil eraser. Alas, Frisk ceased production of CS10 paper years ago, so long ago that I have not been able to find a photograph of the drawing pad on the internet. They continued making drawing boards for a few years but that manufacture too is now no longer carried out. I do have a few - very few - sheets left but after that? I have never found a replacement to CS 10; art dealers have sold me what they tell me was an equivalent but it never was and would not do what the old magic paper used to do.
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Printing |
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The earliest illustrations of church monuments were produced by intaglio printing; these are also the most beautiful. This, of course, was well before the invention of photography and the first stage involved drawing by pencil the monument in the church, sometimes a very difficult task in itself and I greatly admire the artists who undertook this skillful work. The image is then transferred onto a metal plate by creating a number of lines or dots cut into this plate, the various tones being created by varying the depth of the line and by cross hatching. There are other methods and one of these will be briefly mentioned below. The plate is then inked and passed though a press to produce a print. The plate is then cleaned, reinked and another print made, although eventually the plate will begin to show signs of wear. Different artists may be involved in the different processes of this work. Can you see a problem here? The image on the plate has to be drawn in reverse otherwise the resulting print will itself be reversed. However there are ways around this problem, obviously, but I will not describe the minutia here. Three methods of producing the plate will be described below. The prints made by intaglio printing are often loosely - although incorrectly - called etchings; this latter term, in fact, refers to just one of several processes by which prints can be made. Etching, engraving and aquatint will be described here but there are others such as dry point and mezzotint; readers of ghost story writer M. R. James will be familiar with the last term. There are intaglio processes on other materials, such as woodcuts and wood engravings but these will not be described here. Engraving In this process the lines are cut directly into the metal plate (a steel plate, in the example shown on the right) by using a tool called a burin (left). The depth of the line is controlled simply by engraving it more deeply but the direction of the line is changed by rotating the plate not the direction of the burin.. A burin as shown, as may be deduced, has a wooden handle which is held in the palm of the hand; a number of different blades are available. This is very skillful work and a very lengthy process, taking days, weeks or even months to complete a plate. Woe betide you should you make a mistake: you just do not! However the results are truly magnificent: look at the engraving of King Henry IV and his Queen, Joan of Navarre, from Canterbury Cathedral on the right. Here the drawing was executed by architect Edward Blore, which was a major achievement in itself and if you are familiar with this monument you will, like I am, be baffled by how on earth he managed to do it! As is sometimes the case the another hand carried out the engraving: here it was John Henry Le Keux. I certainly admire the skill and dedication of these Victorian gentlemen. I have never attempted engraving and, because I do not have the skill to do so, the time to develop that skill, nor a master to teach me, I almost certainly never will. I have tried to use a burin on softer copper plate which was easy enough, but to execute a full detailed plate is certainly another matter. The plate then has to be printed and this process will be described below in the etching section. Etching was introduced because the process is speedier and more forgiving than engraving. Etching The term etching strictly refers to the process of cutting the very fine lines in a metal plate by a chemical process, rather than cutting them directly with a burin, as is done in engraving. As mentioned above the finished image, often called simply an etching, is strictly a print. The plates are made of copper, zinc or occasionally other metals and the chemicals used - called the etchant - are nitric acid, ferric cholide and or, again, occasionally other chemicals. I use copper because of its beautiful colour and because it was used by etchers in the past; ferric chloride because it is a powder one dissolves in water and this can be easily sent through the pos. Suppliers and the post office are probably more reluctant to send concentrated nitric acid by a similar method! The first stage is to clean and degrease the copper plate otherwise the ground will not stick. The ground is a waxy like substance which is melted onto the plate while it lies on a hot bed which is heated by gas or electricity. Then this layer of this ground is rolled so that it is absolutely even. The ground is to prevent the etchant biting into the plate: you will soon be 'scratching' through the ground (a process called needling), so exposing the underlying copper and this is the first stage in creating the actual image. The back of the plate may already be covered in a resistant layer but, if not, a liquid ground or varnish must painted on to prevent the etchant from biting the copper on the back of the plate. Next you smoke the ground by holding the still warm grounded plate over smoking tapers or a candle. (shown below, left) This is great fun and makes you feel you are using a centuries old technique, which of course you are, and not tapping on a keyboard, as I am doing at the moment. The purpose of this is to give the ground a blackened appearance so that it is easier (more visible) to draw on and so needle the plate. Oh, and don't forget to turn off your smoke alarm: Rembrandt and Stothard didn't have one! Then the drawing is transferred to the plate by the following process: you first make a tracing of, for example, your pencil drawing of an effigy. This need only be an outline tracing as only the general proportions need to be copied. You then turn the tracing paper over and lay it on the grounded plate with a sheet of trace down paper between them (white or yellow, is best), remembering to place it the correct way up. You then draw with a pencil over the lines you made on the tracing paper (but on the other side!). Trace down paper resembles old fashioned carbon paper in allowing images or text to be copied onto the paper, in this case the grounded plate, below so you will find there is an outline, white or yellow, of the reversed drawing on the ground over the copper. This reversed drawing will print the correct way in due course. Now we have a problem: the reversed drawing on the ground is mainly in outline but you need to fill in the detail and shading from your non-reversed drawing. So now you can cheat and return to the 21st century but only for a while: scan your drawing into the computer, reverse it and then print the reversed image. Computers, scanners, and printers do have their use, after all, but if you are tired of things not working and screen messages you cannot understand, work through a mirror as did the etchers of old! Now we are ready to needle the plate: scratching though the ground to expose the underlying copper, being guided by the lines made by the trace down paper and the reversed image you somehow prepared. Try to just go through the ground and not cut into the soft copper, or errors will be more difficult to correct. Here you draw the image outline and detail with all the shading by a variety of cross hatching; you cannot at this stage alter the depth of the line (this will come later) but you can make it wide or narrow. An etching needle is shown below right, but there are other designs available. When ready the plate is immersed in the etchant - usually nitric acid or ferric chloride - for a measured length of time - several minutes - and then removed. It is then washed and examined. If you want the lines deeper to give a stronger line on the forthcoming print the other lines are stopped out by painting a liquid varnish over these lines. The plate is then returned to the etchant bath and again left for several minutes but this time the etchant will only bite into the lines which have not been stopped out. This process may be repeated several times, etching deeper and deeper lines. This process requires a good deal of experience to develop the necessary skill. Initially the copper plate is inked: the aim is to cover all of the plate with ink and especially to force the ink into all of the etched lines on the plate. Etching ink is very thick and this work is carried out with the copper plate placed on a heated bed. Black ink is shown here but other colours are available. You can also produce coloured prints with different coloured inks but this technique is beyond the scope of this short article and certainly well beyond my skill! This is very messy work! Next you wipe the ink off again! Well, not all of it just that which is on the surface of the plate and not in the etched lines. This is a difficult procedure as if any ink is left on the surface you will end up with a dirty looking background (that is, if you want it white, as in the etching of effigies) when you come to produce the first print: and then you will have to wipe all of the ink off the plate and start all over again. There are various techniques for removing all the surplus ink from the plate, one of which is to wipe it with the side of your hand, rather like brushing crumbs off the table for someone else to Hoover up!
Now you are ready to print the plate: the copper plate is laid on the bed of the etching press, which is a special rotary press rather like an old fashioned mangle, protecting the bed and blankets with clean paper to avoid any ink marks. This is then covered by the dampened printing paper, then by a protective paper layer and a series of thick blankets to even the pressure from the rollers. You turn the wheel and the bed with the plate and the paper passes between two rollers. This can be quite hard work but the large and very heavy press in operation in the photograph is geared to make the work easier. Etching paper is quite thick and needs soaking in water for a period before printing can be done. The plate, paper and protective layers on the bed of the press thus travel to the other side of the rollers and now is the moment of truth. In the penultimate photograph below our etcher has thrown back the blankets, which passed through the rollers with everything else and is just about lift the protective layer from the paper underneath. You can see the image showing through the damp paper. In the final photograph, she lifts the damp paper away from the copper plate and there is the image. Success! Note that the image covers the whole plate so this does not need to be wiped completely clear of ink as when trying to achieve a white background such as in etchings of effigies. If you are not happy with the result, or if you want another print...or another, you clear off all the remaining ink from the plate and start again.
If you think about it - you are printing from a metal plate with ink in fine lines, not a raised surface and you are using damp paper: it shouldn't really work or at least not so as to produce such fine effects: but it does! Other Methods There are other ways of producing plates for intaglio printing which you are much less likely to come across and these may be found on the internet in articles about intaglio printing, if you are interested. I will mention just one other method here, not because I have or have ever seen original prints produced by this method, but because it is a technique that I have used myself on two or three occasions; this is called aquatint. This method, although related to etching, produces prints which resemble pencil drawings rather than those produced by etching, which resemble pen and ink drawings. It is difficult to see at this magnification but compare the image on the left, which was produced by aquatint, with that on the right, which was produced by etching. On the left the tones are solid blocks of shading while on the right the difference in tone is produced mainly by cross hatching but also by different depths of the incised line. This latter process, produced by using different times in the etching bath, is actually similarly used in aquatint although for whole blocks rather than individual lines. Aquatint can be combined with etching to produce a line and wash effect: this was used on the print on the left. The method of aquatint is, in outline, thus: again you begin with a clean, grease free copper plate but this time instead of covering the plate with a melted, solid ground, it is covered with powdered rosin, a solid form of resin obtained from pine and other plants; rosin is also used by violinists and ballet dancers. The aim is to spread this rosin powder evenly and completely over the copper plate. This is difficult to do well but there are aquatint boxes to carry out this process so as to achieve the desired result; these can be operated by turning a handle manually so spreading the powder but there are also mechanically driven ones. These boxes are expensive to buy: my limited aquatint work was carried out in a professional studio. It is possible to spread the rosin powder by a simpler and considerably cheaper method. The rosin powder is placed in a silk bag and simply shaken over the plate; I have never used this process but it rather sounds like one of those procedures which is considerably easier said than done. It does have one advantage in skilled hands: with the box the rosin is evenly spread but with a silk bag, it is possibly to vary to amount of rosin over different areas of the plate. This may produce interesting (and possibly unpredictable) effects but my interest is to simply produce a record rather than any artistic effect. This spreading of rosin powder will simply dust the plate but the rosin will not adher to it, so the plate has to be taken (with great care: eject the cat, turn off the fan, and close all doors and windows!) to the heated bed which is used for melting the ground in etching. The plate is then warmed until the white rosin dust begins to melt and turns yellow; it is then removed before the rosin completely liquifies and spreads over the whole plate. This result will produce nothing! What you are trying to achieve are dots of rosin spread evenly over and fixed to the plate. The desired apperance are tiny islands of rosin grains with bare metal between them. If you now etch the plate in the acid bath the result will be tiny tiny raised islands of unetched metal, which have been protected by the rosin, surrounded by a sea of etched and so very slighly lower bare metal. If you now ink the plate as before, the ink will remain in the 'sea' while the 'islands' with be bare uninked metal, and the printed result a uniform gray area depending on how long you have left the plate in the etching bath. Actually it will not really be uniform at all but rather like a photograph in reverse: the 'islands' all white (the paper) and the 'sea', which holds the ink like the etched or engraved line, a shade of gray. But like a photograph, unless a very grainy one, it will look a flat gray. Not very exciting but now if you use stop out varnish as in the etching process, the stopped out areas will appear white and the other areas, depending on how long they are in contact with the etchant, will turn out to be increasingly darker shades of gray. The aquatint on the left was begun with a line etching for the outlines and the aquatint used later for the shading. Note that several of the etchings you may find in the works of Stothard and T & G Hollis appear coloured; although coloured etchings can be produced by a technique using different coloured inks, these are not the method used in those works. Rather they are hand coloured etchings, each print being hand coloured after they were printed. Actual coloured etching is beyond the scope of this article and quite beyond me as well.
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